EV Conversion Conversations

How bout an update?

2010-07-13T11:52:43Z

Steve, how is the Power Ranger doing? Any updates? Any breakdowns? New ideas? The GTI sounds very do-able...... until I got to the $2000 part. Can it be done under $2000?

Things to Monitor and Make your EV Batteries Work Better

2008-01-03T18:12:20Z

the most interesting thing I have found - since buying an WV - is that while most realize you need a Battery Management System with their Expensive and highly reactive Lithium Cobalt Battery Chemistries - most don't consider the benefits of such circuits for their low-cost Lead Acid Battery systems!

The Power Cheq Battery Equalizer - h_t_t_p://www.powerdesigners.com/powercheq.htm is one device that will help your batteries last longer.

Also - Lead Acid Batteries - have the Sulfation problem - so something to combat that - and extend their life is useful - such as the Duo-Regen products: h_t_t_p://www.batterylifeplus.com/index.htm

Of Course - Monitoring your Batteries - helps to keep track of them better too: h_t_t_p://www.paktrakr.com/index.html

I am also working on a simple bargraph battery voltmeter design for my electricfly - to compare each battery voltage live and continuously - with 1 bargraph per battery in my traction batteries. the Design is done, and one prototype is assembled, now just need to get PCB's made and product assembled!

Used in conjunction with the eVision - h_t_t_p://www.metricmind.com/evision.htm and the PowerCheq and Duo-Regen Products - I should be well equipped!

Choices of Batteries Today - In part

2008-01-03T17:26:43Z

Hello, as I am not a battery chemist or salesman, these are just my observations.

The Lowest cost of Battery Type is the Flooded Lead-Acid type, or FPbA,
Next Lowest cost is the Sealed or Advanced Glass Mat, (AGM) Type of Lead Acid - PbA-AGM
Then the Price moves up - and depending on your choices varies in terms of the next higher prices.

I have compared the single cell, 2V Spiral Wound, Exide PbA Cells and found them - at a price of about $30-40 per 2V, 25Ah Cell nets a possible higher price than the ThunderSky Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) Cells (at about $2.40 per Ah, with cells at 40 Ah, 60 Ah, 90 Ah, 160 Ah, 200 Ah, 400Ah, and even 800 Ah - but it is slightly higher priced per Ah) for my vehicle application (based on a 90 - 100 ah x 96V application) - and with the lower voltage (2V compared to 3.2V for the LiFePO4 ThunderSky Cells), requires more cells for the specified system voltage - meaning more wiring, management, and connection issues.

In the Nickle-Metal Hydride, or NiMH Chemistries - I can only find one source for EV's - Nilar.

In the LiFePO4 chemistries - although there may be more - the examples I am most familiar with are the ThunderSky large format prismatic (brick style) cells, and the A123Systems cylindrical cells. Also - I believe the Valence Batteries and cells fall within this chemistry group.

The Simplest of these to use in an existing PbA EV Conversion - is the Valence XP Series batteries. (Mid Priced)
the Most cost-effective of them is the ThunderSky Cells. (Lowest Priced)
And - the most space adaptable of them would be the A123 systems Cells. (Highest Priced)

Moving up the chain of chemistries available today - in the Lithium category is the Lithium Polimer (LiPo) and Lithium Super Polymer (a name given by one company to indicate higher energy per volume/weight).

LiPo - for EV available today generally are limited to Kokam, with hopes that Electrovaya will soon be marketing their product for this field. Expected first deliveries are spring, 2008.

Cyclon Cells - Info: h_t_t_p://www.enersysreservepower.com/cyc_b.asp
Cyclon - purchase: h_t_t_p://www.batteriesplus.com/p-23735 … -0004.aspx

Nilar: h_t_t_p://nilar.com/index.php?pageID=33 … nguageID=1

Thunder Sky - Products: h_t_t_p://www.thunder-sky.com/products_en.asp
Everspring - ThunderSky Cells: h_t_t_p://www.everspring.net/txt/produc … ricing.htm

Kokam: h_t_t_p://www.kokam.com/english/product … _main.html
Electrovaya: h_t_t_p://www.electrovaya.com/innovation/zev_tech.html

Power Ranger

2007-11-28T03:30:20Z

Still hoping to see the Power Ranger. It's got to be "broken in" by now. How bout an update? What's your best range, speed, etc?

Project cost and budget

2007-06-11T13:56:37Z

This is probably something most wives don't want to discuss. How much does it cost to convert a 98 Ford Ranger to electric? What's your estimated budget? Can we see a spreadsheet or something?
Other than that, you have a fantastic web site. I would have chosen a Ranger too. S10 would be second choice. I currently have a 96 Passat TDI wagon running biodiesel and my 4 year old daughter has been my only passenger. Therefore a truck would be perfect for me...doesn't even have to be ext. cab.

Register - and win!

2007-05-29T23:24:08Z

If you register, you can use the "Show new posts since last visit" feature of the forums to quickly find the posts that you have not read.

The win? You save time!!!!

Sealing ports while work is in progress

2007-05-28T22:14:33Z

There are ports on the ICE and on the components you are going to keep that need to be sealed while you are completing your conversion. I highly recommend aluminized A/C sealant tape for this task. It can hold against liquids and form around hose and pipes to create a seal that will hold until the cows come home!

Flywheel ring removal

2007-05-27T14:32:25Z

From the manuals and talking with my conversion kit vendor, I knew that my starter ring could be removed from the flywheel by heating it up and then tapping it off. From past experience it takes a pretty heavy duty heat source (such as a oxy/acetalyne torch) to get enough expansion to do the job. When it came time for the to do this chore my torch rig was a bit buried in my garage and I only had a few minutes available to take a shot. I had been very suprised at the power in my MAPP torch while making a plumbing repair so I decided to give it a run at it. It worked just fine. I moved the torch around the ring for about 2 minutes and then used a baby sledge anda punch to drive the ring off. No problemo!

01/04/07 Process - Vin Numbers don't tell the whole story sometimes

2007-05-27T02:28:36Z

Ford threw me a nasty curve ball. The VIN of the vehicle and the motor all say 2.5 L, but the transmission is shaped for a 2.03 or 2.3 L engine. If you are ordering an adapter - take a picture of the transmission ousing after ICE removal and send it to your vendor before you order. It might save you several weeks and a lot of hair.

Books

2007-05-27T02:25:26Z

Someone asked what books I have referenced. Several!
Here's ISBN for a couple.

0-8306-4231-5 Build Your Own Electric Vehicle - Bob Brant
1-879857-94-4 Convert It - Michael P. Brown

05/07 Process hints

2007-05-27T02:19:53Z

05/10/06 If you are going to drive a power steering pump or A/C compressor from the auxilliary shaft of the EV motor, install the drive pulley on the EV motor before you install in the vehicle.

10/05 Process Hints

2007-05-27T02:19:07Z

21-Oct Determine the engine rotation before you start pulling things apart- you need this for A/C & power steering pump
21-Oct Broke power steering pulley (the main body was plastic!) - check shop manuals anytime it is not obvious how to get something off. You have to pull the pully to dismount the power steering pump.
20-Oct Finally found new wheels, cheaper NEW ones within 24 hours - as opposed to used that I have been trying to get for weeks. Check new and used parts - you might be surprised!
22-Oct Frame may offer built holes for interim support of transmission. I put in a 2x4 and wedges (see picts). Better safe than sorry!
23-Oct My garage is not deep enough to pull engine from front with the truck fully parked inside. So? Lift over the side! I had to remove the right hand wheel and put in a jack stand, but much simpler situation! With a sloped driveway, I didn't want to hassle with pushing the truck in and out.
24-Oct Clutch needed replacing. Talked with Pep Boys, confusion over whether clutch was self adjusting or not (me and them). I should have read through the shop manual section on the clutch before looking for this relatively high cost part (it is self adjusting).
24-Oct Saw the clutch prices at Pep Boys and the 5 business day delivery. After reading shop manual, searched online for parts. Ordered them for 1/3 less and interestingly, same delivery schedule (or better)! WEB rules for long lead time parts!

10/06 Tool hints

2007-05-27T02:15:58Z

21-Oct Need specialized, cheap, tool to disconnect Ford quick link lines (A/C, fuel). Get the complete set. You will need most of them if you are going to reinstall the A/C compressor.
21-Oct You need a portable light source (flashlight and/or shop light) no matter how good your working area lighting is
22-Oct Shop auto jack and jack stands make getting room under vehicle a snap - and much safer! Safety First!
22-Oct Air wrench cannot bust all bolts free. Make sure you have a long handled break over bar or ratchet (at least 12")
22-Oct Unless you are working on a true antique - everything is metric. Have a complete set of metric sockets, shallow and deep. Also open and box end hand wrenches - 7mm to 22mm.
If you are working on a Ford, get special tool from auto store to decouple gas lines.
If you are lucky enough to have an impact wrench, you may want a hardened socket set, but it will be big bucks. For a limited amount of work, it was worth the risk to me to just use my regular set.
24-Oct Order the clutch alignment tool. For $4 it can save you a LOT of hassles and lower the chance of you screwing up your pressure plate, clutch or pilot bearing.